Lapel & Details Guide

Why Details Define a Suit

When you first glance at a suit, you see elegance. But when you look closer, you discover what separates the extraordinary from the ordinary: details. Lapels, buttons, linings, stitching—all these small elements carry the soul of tailoring. They are not just design choices; they are codes of tradition, expressions of personality, and finishing touches that transform fabric into an identity.

Our Lapel & Details Guide was created to help you understand the hidden language of tailoring. Because in the world of suits, the difference between a good suit and a great suit often lies in the details.

The Lapel – A Gentleman’s Signature

Notch Lapel – The Universal Classic

The notch lapel is the most common lapel style, defined by a small “notch” where the collar meets the lapel.

Occasions: Business suits, daily wear, versatile styling.
Why It Matters: Universally flattering and timeless—safe for nearly every suit.
Style Personality: Balanced, approachable, versatile.

The notch lapel is the everyman’s signature: understated but always appropriate.

Peak Lapel – Bold Power and Prestige

The peak lapel points sharply upward, giving a suit a dramatic, powerful look.

Occasions: Formal business suits, tuxedos, double-breasted jackets, weddings.
Why It Matters: Creates a commanding, elongating effect, signaling confidence.
Style Personality: Ambitious, stylish, authoritative.

The peak lapel is for those who want to stand out. It is not shy—it is a lapel of presence.

Shawl Lapel – Smooth Elegance

The shawl lapel is rounded and seamless, with no breaks or points.

Occasions: Tuxedos, evening jackets, black-tie events.
Why It Matters: Associated with dinner jackets and formal eveningwear.
Style Personality: Elegant, refined, classic.

The shawl lapel is the epitome of evening grace—a lapel made for candlelight and champagne.

Double-Breasted Suits – Heritage with Impact

The double-breasted suit is defined by overlapping front flaps and two vertical rows of buttons.

Occasions: Weddings, business power dressing, fashion-forward events.
Why It Matters: A double-breasted suit conveys authority and heritage.
Style Personality: Confident, bold, fashion-conscious.

When paired with peak lapels, the double-breasted becomes the ultimate power suit—a modern nod to classic tailoring.

The Language of Buttons

How Many Buttons?

Two-Button Jacket: The modern standard. Always button the top, never the bottom.
Three-Button Jacket: Traditional and formal. Middle button is key; top optional, bottom never.
Double-Breasted Jacket: Always fasten the anchor button inside and one row outside.

Button Etiquette

Buttons are not only functional—they are tradition. The famous rule “sometimes, always, never” for a 3-button suit (top sometimes, middle always, bottom never) is a small etiquette that signals true sartorial knowledge.

Linings – The Secret Personality of a Suit

Inside every suit lies a hidden world: the lining. Often overlooked, linings tell a personal story.

Full Lining: Smooth drape, structure, and durability.
Half Lining: Breathability and comfort in warmer climates.
Unlined: Lightweight, casual, natural.

Style & Customization

Linings are where you can quietly express individuality. A navy business suit might hide a bold paisley interior. A charcoal tuxedo might reveal a silk burgundy lining. It’s elegance on the outside, personality on the inside.

Stitching & Finishing Details

Pick Stitching: Subtle hand stitches along lapels and edges—proof of craftsmanship.
Surgeon’s Cuffs: Functional buttonholes on jacket sleeves, historically for battlefield surgeons, today a hallmark of custom tailoring.
Vent Styles:
- Single Vent: Classic, comfortable, traditional.
- Double Vent: Sleek, European, allows movement.
- No Vent: Minimalist, often seen on tuxedos.

These details may seem small, but together they define a suit’s soul.

Occasion-Based Details

Business → Notch lapel, two-button, full lining, subtle detailing.
Weddings → Peak lapel or shawl lapel, three-piece with bold lining for personality.
Evening/Formal → Shawl lapel tuxedo, single-button closure, silk or satin details.
Fashion-Forward → Double-breasted peak lapel, contrasting buttons, expressive linings.

Choosing details isn’t just design—it’s storytelling for the right moment.

FAQs – Lapels & Suit Details

Which lapel should I choose for business?
Notch lapel is safest, peak lapel for added authority.

Are double-breasted suits still in style?
Yes—especially with modern tailoring. They have returned as a fashion-forward yet timeless option.

What’s the difference between full lining and half lining?
Full lining gives structure, half lining is lighter and breathable for warmer weather.

Why are surgeon’s cuffs special?
They’re functional buttonholes on sleeves—something only high-quality or custom suits include.

Why Details Matter

Lapels, buttons, and linings may seem small, but they transform how a suit is read by others. They tell the world whether you are traditional or modern, understated or bold, safe or adventurous. In tailoring, details are not decoration—they are identity.