Plus Size & Big and Tall Custom Suits
Plus Size & Big and Tall Custom Suits
We don't have a plus size section.
We don't have sizes.
Every SuitedNoir suit is cut to the measurements of the man who ordered it. There is no 48R. There is no "closest fit." There is your chest, your waist, your shoulders — and a suit built to them.
SuitedNoir is a made-to-measure menswear house producing custom suits, tuxedos and formalwear for men in the United States. Every garment is individually cut to the customer's own measurements rather than to a standard size, which means there is no size range and no big & tall department — a man with a 60-inch chest chooses from exactly the same 75 colours and 9 fabrics as a man with a 38-inch chest.
Suits start at $1,400. Orders are made to order and delivered across the US in 10–15 days, backed by a Perfect Fit Guarantee: SuitedNoir covers alterations, or remakes the suit at no charge.
If you are a bigger man, you already know the routine. You find the rack at the back. You take whatever is in your size, in whichever two colours they bothered to make it in. You buy the jacket that fits your chest and live with the waist. Then you pay a tailor to fix what the manufacturer never got right.
The problem isn't your body. It's the assumption underneath every big & tall department: that all large men are shaped the same way. They aren't. Some men carry weight through the chest, some through the middle. Some are tall and broad, others short and powerful. Some have the shoulders of a rower and the waist of a father of three. A single size chart cannot serve all of them, so it serves none of them well.
Ready-to-wear suits are built to that average and then graded up — the same pattern, scaled larger, with the proportions left where they were. That is why a 52R jacket so often has sleeves for a man six inches shorter, or a chest that fits while the waist billows. Grading is not tailoring. It is arithmetic.
Made to measure removes the chart entirely. You send us your measurements — taken at home, in about ten minutes — and we cut the cloth to them. Not to the nearest size. To yours.
SuitedNoir by the numbers
you take at home
your door
— no size premium
SuitedNoir vs. a typical big & tall store
The difference isn't service. It's method. A big & tall retailer sells you the closest suit they made in advance. We make the suit after you order it.
| SuitedNoir | Typical big & tall retailer | |
|---|---|---|
| How the suit is made | Cut to your measurements after you order | Pre-made to a graded size chart |
| Size range | No sizes — we use your numbers | Fixed range; you fit it or you don't |
| Colours available | 75 | Typically 4–8 in larger sizes |
| Fabrics available | 9 — wool, linen, cotton, flannel, velvet, tweed, seersucker, silk blend, cashmere blend | Usually polyester blends in larger sizes |
| Sleeve length | Exact | Standard, then altered |
| Jacket length | Cut for your torso | S / R / L only |
| Waist suppression | Shaped to your measurement | Fixed drop from chest size |
| Trouser rise | Set to where your waist actually sits | One rise per size |
| Lapel choice | Notch, peak or shawl — your width | Whatever was made |
| Alteration cost | Covered by us | $100–$300, on you |
| Price premium for larger sizes | None | Common |
How it works
1. Choose your suit
Pick the colour, the cloth, the lapel, the buttons. The full range — navy, charcoal, black, sage green, burgundy, terracotta — because there is no separate "big" range with two colours in it.
2. Measure at home
Eight measurements, a soft tape, about ten minutes. Our measurement guide walks through each one — chest, waist, shoulder, sleeve, jacket length, neck, trouser waist and inseam — including the mistakes that ruin a fit. Send them to us before you order and we'll review them free.
3. We cut to you
Your suit is made to order in 10–15 days and shipped to your door. If it isn't right when it arrives, we cover the alterations at a local tailor — or remake the suit at no charge.
Tailor's tip
Send us a photograph alongside your measurements, standing straight, arms relaxed. Numbers describe size; a photograph describes posture — a forward shoulder, a fuller chest, a slight stoop. It's the difference between a suit that fits your measurements and one that fits you.
Why SuitedNoir
- Made to measure, not graded. Your pattern, cut from your numbers.
- Same range, whatever your build. 75 colours, 9 fabrics, no exceptions.
- No size premium. A 58-inch chest costs what a 38 costs.
- Half-canvas construction. The chest piece moulds to you as you wear it.
- Perfect Fit Guarantee. We pay for alterations, or remake it free.
- Free measurement review. Send your numbers before you order.
- Made to order. Nothing sits in a warehouse. Nothing is "out of stock in your size."
- 10–15 days, shipped across the US. No showroom, no appointment.
What actually flatters a larger frame
Most advice for bigger men is about hiding. This isn't. These are the choices that make a suit work with a broader build rather than against it — and every one of them is yours to make.
Dark, matte cloth
Navy, charcoal, midnight blue, chocolate. Matte surfaces absorb light instead of bouncing it off, which reads as slimmer. Flannel is the quiet champion — soft, forgiving, and quietly expensive-looking.
Single-breasted, low button stance
A lower button lengthens the torso and opens the V of the jacket, which draws the eye up. Double-breasted can work — see the FAQ — but it needs a confident cut and a jacket long enough to cover the seat.
A lapel with width to it
A narrow lapel on a broad chest looks like a mistake. Proportion beats trend: the lapel should balance the shoulder, not fight it. Peak lapels add height; notch lapels are quieter and never wrong.
Weight, not thinness, in summer cloth
Linen gets written off for bigger men, wrongly. Light linen collapses against the body and clings. A heavier 280–320gsm linen hangs straight — cool, structured, and nothing like a rack suit.
Colour, if you want it
Sage green, burgundy, olive, terracotta. Big men are routinely told to stay in navy and black. That advice exists because badly fitted suits look worse in colour — not because colour is the problem.
Trousers that sit where your waist is
Not where a size chart thinks it is. Most men with a fuller midsection wear trousers too low, under the belly, which shortens the leg and emphasises the waist. A correct rise is the single biggest difference between a suit that fits and one that merely covers you.
The best fabrics for a bigger build
Wool — the year-round answer
Mid-weight worsted wool is the workhorse. It has enough body to hold a clean line through the chest and waist without clinging, and it drapes rather than bunches. Merino and Italian wool in the 260–300gsm range are ideal: heavy enough to hang, light enough to wear indoors. Avoid anything with a sheen — a shiny worsted reflects light and adds visual bulk exactly where you don't want it.
Flannel — the most forgiving cloth there is
Brushed, matte, soft-handed. Flannel absorbs light and hides the small ripples that a hard-finished worsted announces. It is warmer, so we cut it a touch cleaner through the body and skip the heavy chest canvas that adds bulk on a larger man.
Linen — yes, really
The received wisdom is that big men shouldn't wear linen. The received wisdom is thinking of cheap linen. At 280–320gsm, linen has structure: it falls from the shoulder in a straight line, it breathes in a way no wool can, and it wrinkles in a way that reads as relaxed rather than untidy. For a summer wedding in Miami or Austin, there is nothing better.
Cotton — the everyday suit
Cotton has more structure than linen and less formality than wool. On a broader build we leave the jacket unlined through the back for airflow and shape the waist gently rather than sharply — hard suppression only emphasises what it's trying to hide.
Velvet — for evening, done properly
Velvet is a statement, and on a big man done well it is a considerable one. The pile catches light, so the cut must be disciplined: single-breasted, one button, shawl or peak lapel, jacket long enough to cover the seat. Dark tones only — this is where black, midnight blue and burgundy earn their keep. See our velvet tuxedos.
Cashmere blend — the luxury option
The softest thing you can put on a suit that still behaves like a suit. Cashmere blend is featherweight for its warmth, which matters on a larger frame: you get the drape without the heft.
Tailor's tip
Weight matters more than fibre. A 240gsm wool and a 320gsm linen will both hang beautifully on a big man; a 180gsm anything will cling. When in doubt, go heavier — the cloth should fall away from the body, not lie against it.
How the suit is built
Underneath the cloth, a jacket has an internal chest piece — the canvas. It's the thing that gives a suit its shape and the reason a good jacket looks better after a year and a cheap one looks worse.
Fully fused jackets glue the lining to the cloth. They're cheap, they're what most big & tall suits are, and they bubble at the chest over time. Full canvas floats a layer of horsehair between cloth and lining, stitched not glued — it moulds to your chest as you wear it. Half canvas does the same through the chest and lapel, the part that matters, and fuses the skirt.
SuitedNoir builds half canvas as standard. On a larger chest this matters more, not less: a fused front across a broad chest is exactly where bubbling shows first.
Other details that come as standard: a pick-stitched lapel edge, Bemberg lining that breathes, and a choice of lining colour — a small, private pleasure, and one no big & tall rack will ever offer you.
Choosing by occasion
Weddings
The recurring problem for a bigger groomsman is not fit — it's colour. The party picks sage green, or dusty rose, or terracotta, and the big & tall store has it in navy. We don't have that problem: you get the same 75 colours as everyone else, so you match the party instead of standing out from it. See linen wedding suits, linen groomsmen suits, and our guide to wedding suit colours for 2026.
Business
Navy or charcoal, mid-weight wool, notch lapel, two buttons. It is the least interesting advice in menswear and it is correct. Where a bigger man gains is in the details a rack suit won't give him: a jacket that actually closes without strain, a trouser rise that sits at his waist, and sleeves that end at the wrist bone. See business suits.
Black tie
A tuxedo is the most flattering thing a big man can wear, because it is the most structured. Shawl or peak lapel, one button, no vent, black or midnight blue. Read charcoal vs navy if you're choosing your first dark suit.
Summer
Linen or cotton, lighter colours if you want them, unlined or half-lined jacket. A summer suit for a bigger man should be about airflow, not about looking smaller. See summer suits and our complete linen guide.
Winter
Flannel, tweed or a heavier wool. Weight is your friend here — it hangs, it insulates, and it's the most forgiving cloth on the shelf. See winter suits.
The five mistakes that ruin a big man's suit
Buying for the chest and living with the waist
The most common compromise in ready-to-wear, and the one made-to-measure exists to end. The chest and waist are separate measurements. They should be treated as such.
Wearing the trousers under the belly
It feels more comfortable. It shortens the leg, pushes the shirt out, and makes the midsection the first thing anyone sees. The rise should be cut so the waistband sits at your natural waist.
Sizing up to hide
A bigger suit does not make a smaller man. It makes a bigger man in a tent. Drape is what flatters — cloth falling cleanly from the shoulder — and drape needs a correct fit, not a loose one.
A jacket too short
Fashion has pulled jacket lengths up for a decade. On a larger frame a short jacket cuts the body in half and leaves the seat exposed. The hem should cover the seat entirely.
Shiny fabric
Sheen reflects light, and light reveals contour. Matte cloth — flannel, brushed wool, a matte worsted — does the opposite. This is the cheapest slimming trick in tailoring and nobody uses it.
Made to measure, delivered across the United States
SuitedNoir makes and ships plus size and big & tall custom suits to men in New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Houston, Dallas, Miami, Atlanta, Boston, Seattle, San Francisco, Denver, Phoenix, Nashville, Austin and Las Vegas — and everywhere else in the country. There is no showroom to visit and no appointment to book. You measure at home, we cut in the workshop, and the suit arrives at your door in 10–15 days.
Climate shapes the right choice as much as occasion does. A summer wedding in Miami or Houston calls for linen or cotton; a winter in Chicago, Boston or Denver calls for flannel or a heavier wool. Our fabric-by-climate guide breaks it down by region.
Every suit is made to order. Nothing is held in stock, which is exactly why there is no size range to fall outside of.
Questions
Sizing & ordering
What sizes do you go up to?
We don't work in sizes. Your suit is cut from the measurements you send us, so there is no chart to fall off the end of. If you'd like us to check your measurements before you order, send them to us and we'll review them free.
Do I need a tailor to take my measurements?
No. Eight measurements, a soft tape, about ten minutes at home. Our measurement guide covers each one, and we'll flag anything that looks inconsistent before we cut.
What if it doesn't fit when it arrives?
We cover the cost of alterations at a local tailor. If it can't be made right, we remake the suit at no charge. That's the Perfect Fit Guarantee, and it applies to every suit we make.
Is a made-to-measure suit more expensive than a big & tall suit off the rack?
Our suits start at $1,400. An off-the-rack suit plus the alterations a larger frame usually needs often lands in the same territory — and still fits like a compromise. There is no size premium here: the price is identical to every other SuitedNoir suit.
How long does it take?
10–15 days from order to delivery. Everything is made to order, so nothing ships from a warehouse.
Fit & cut
What's the best suit for a man with a large stomach?
Single-breasted, two buttons with a low stance, a jacket long enough to cover the seat, and — most importantly — trousers with a rise that sits at your natural waist rather than beneath the belly. Matte cloth in a dark colour. The instinct is to size up; resist it. Drape flatters, volume does not.
Can overweight men wear double-breasted suits?
Yes, and often better than slim men can. A double-breasted jacket creates a strong diagonal line across the chest and its extra structure suits a broader frame. Two conditions: the jacket must be long enough to cover the seat, and it must be cut for you — a double-breasted jacket that doesn't fit is the least forgiving garment in menswear.
Should a big man wear a slim fit suit?
No — but the alternative isn't a baggy suit. What you want is a fitted suit: clean through the shoulder, gently shaped at the waist, with cloth falling away from the body rather than pulling across it. Slim fit is cut close to the body everywhere, which on a larger frame means strain at the button and pulling at the hip.
How long should the jacket be?
Long enough to cover the seat completely. Stand with your arms relaxed and curl your fingers; the hem should sit around the middle of your curled fingers. Shorter than that and the jacket cuts your body in half.
Which lapel is best for a bigger build?
A peak lapel draws the eye upward and outward, which adds height. A notch lapel is quieter and never wrong. Either way, give it width — a narrow lapel on a broad chest looks undersized.
How should the trousers fit?
The waistband at your natural waist, not below the belly. A clean line through the seat without pulling. A slight break at the shoe. Pleats are worth considering on a fuller build — they add room through the hip without adding bulk to the line.
Should the jacket be vented?
Double vents. They let the jacket sit cleanly over the seat and hip instead of flaring, and they're more forgiving when you sit down. A single vent on a broader seat tends to gape.
Fabric & colour
What's the best fabric for a plus size suit?
Mid-weight wool for year-round wear, flannel for winter and the most forgiving drape of any cloth, linen for summer. Avoid anything lightweight or shiny — a 180gsm cloth clings, and sheen reveals contour. Weight matters more than fibre.
Can a big man wear linen?
Yes, provided the linen is heavy enough. Light linen collapses against the body; a 280–320gsm linen hangs straight from the shoulder and breathes better than anything else you can wear in July. The advice against linen for larger men is really advice against cheap linen.
What colours are best?
Navy, charcoal, midnight blue and chocolate are the most reliably flattering — dark, matte, quietly slimming. But there's no rule against colour. Sage green, burgundy, olive and terracotta all work on a bigger man when the suit fits. The reason you're told to avoid them is that badly fitted suits look worse in colour, not that colour is the problem.
Can I wear a light grey or beige suit?
Yes — with contrast. Pair a light suit with a crisp white shirt and dark shoes, so the eye reads a clean vertical line rather than a single pale mass. Light colours are less forgiving of a bad fit, which is precisely why made-to-measure makes them possible.
Occasions
Can I get a plus size suit for a wedding?
Yes — and in the same colour as the rest of the party, which is usually the problem with big & tall ranges. Linen for summer and beach weddings, wool for autumn, velvet for black tie.
What should a bigger groomsman wear?
The same suit as everyone else, cut to him. That's the entire answer, and it's the one a big & tall rack cannot give. See groomsmen suits and the groomsmen coordination guide.
Is a tuxedo flattering on a larger man?
It's the most flattering thing you can wear, because it's the most structured. Shawl or peak lapel, one button, no vent, black or midnight blue. See tuxedos.
What shoes go with a plus size suit?
Dark leather, clean lines, and a shape proportionate to your frame — a very narrow shoe under a broader build looks unbalanced. Black oxfords with navy or charcoal; dark brown derbies with brown, olive or lighter summer cloth.
What tie width should I wear?
Match the tie to the lapel. If your lapel is wide — as it should be on a broader chest — a skinny tie will look out of proportion. 8–9cm is a safe range.
The suit itself
What is half-canvas construction, and does it matter?
The canvas is the internal chest piece that gives a jacket its shape. Fused jackets glue it; canvassed jackets stitch it, so it moulds to your chest over time. On a broader chest this matters more, not less — a fused front is exactly where bubbling shows first. SuitedNoir builds half canvas as standard.
How do I care for the suit?
Hang it on a wide wooden hanger, brush it after wearing, and dry-clean it as rarely as you can — twice a year at most. Air it out overnight between wears. A well-made suit gets better with age; dry-cleaning is what ages it badly.
What's the difference between made to measure and bespoke?
Bespoke starts from a pattern drafted for you from scratch, usually across several in-person fittings. Made to measure adapts an existing block to your measurements. Bespoke costs three to ten times as much. For most men — including most bigger men — made to measure delivers the fit they actually want at a price that makes sense. We've written about it here.
A suit built for the body you have
Not the body a size chart decided was standard. Seventy-five colours, nine cloths, cut to your measurements, delivered in 10–15 days.
Shop plus size suits How to measure